Tuesday, December 25, 2018

Evening. It looks like another Christmas is about to slide into history. It has been a pleasant day here—-sunshine, temperature reached 60, and there was no snow to shovel! This is THE time of year here in the Great Sonoran Desert. It is just cool enough in the early hours to make a light coat comfortable, but not what one would call “cold.”

We had a nice day at friends’ house for dinner, which was excellent, elegant, and very convivial. Merry Christmas!

So, 2018 is also about to slide down the ways and into the history books, or blogs, or whatever medium will contain the records of what were current events. And those records and analyses will be, as always, subject to the diligence, curiosity, honesty, prejudice and emotion, all of which make history more of a story or a tale than an accurate and complete historical veritude. I think the year we are about to abandon will be remembered in mostly negative terms and moods And rightly so! No matter what one’s political preference might be, I will wager that all sides would agree that presently things are messed up, and it is likely that any attempt to objectively view 2018 is bound to fail because of the frail humans who will make that attempt. So, in a sense, the history of a certain period is actually a tale of the past that is fraught with emotion, bias, inaccuracies, faulty memories, and some amount of imagination. But, the account often makes good reading, and is entertaining.

Let us hope that 2019 is a better year, and that it comes out well for us all.  

Day 6, Tuesday, December 11, 2018

Bidding adios to Van Horn, my next goal was Bisbee, Arizona, which was a bit off the most direct route to Scottsdale, but it took me off of the interstate and to the vicinity of the Mexican Border to one of Arizona’s former copper centers. Bisbee was big in the late Nineteenth and early Twentieth Centuries, when copper was king. It survives today by capturing the essence of a mining town and times long gone, now mining the pockets of the tourists who flock there (in season).  

I pulled in there about 1400, after an uneventful 400 miles, most of which were at cool low-40s temperatures. I took a room for the night at The Inn At Castle Rock, a very funky hotel that epitomizes what we expect those years to look like. Dinner that evening at The Copper Queen Hotel, where I had one of the best filet mignon steaks I have ever had, accompanied by a glass of $12 French Sauvignon Rouge—-not bad wine, but wasted on the likes of me—-they all taste pretty much the same to me, having just taken up an occasional libation after 32 years of teetotalling. I have decided that I may be old enough to handle alcohol wisely. I was one of only two diners that evening, and indication of the slow times in town at this time of the year. Lucí, my Filipina waitress said that she has been told that things pick up after the New Year. It is a picturesque little burg, and I was glad to revisit it. 

Day 7, Wednesday, December 12, 2018.

I planned to ride to Globe, then Roosevelt Dam, and down the Apache Trail to Tortilla Flat (22 miles of dirt and gravel, giving the bike a chance to perform off pavement), but somehow got cross-ways with my GPS and had to abort the Apache Trail portion and head for home from Globe due to impending darkness.

When stopped for gas a few miles short of Globe, I realized that I didn’t’ have my phone. I unpacked my IPad and exercised the “Find My Phone” App. Bingo! It showed the phone at The Inn At Castle Rock! I pushed the option that sounded the phone, and supplied whoever had the phone to call my dear wife’s cell #. Then I texted her that a call should be coming from Bisbee to get the address of where to send the phone. 

I arrived home in Scottsdale at 1600, safe and sound. Another successful bike trip—-No One Got Hurt!

I love this bike!    

Day 4. Sunday, December 9 2018.

I missed the most direct route to Austin while in the freeway maze of the Houston system, so continued on Interstate 10 until Texas 71, which cut straight to Austin. Arrived there, found a nice Holiday Inn Express Hotel fairly close to the medical supply where I hoped to get  replacement nose piece for my travel CPAP.  

The ride was uneventful, although cool until approaching Austin—-41 degrees t the onset, close to 55 arriving. Traffic was fairly light, and I made good time—-480 miles in 9:45.

Day 5, Monday, December 10, 2018.

I got to the medical supply by 0900, got the nose piece, and was on the road west by 1015. I took US 29 until it intersected I-10 near Junctrion, Texas. I had not refueled in Austin, so stopped in Fredericksburg (about 75 miles) for gas. The fuel stops along this route in Western Teas are not close together, and this little 800 CC engine winds up pretty tight at Freeway speeds (80 MPH limit on select Texas freeways)——6000 RPMs or a smidge above. On this day they were not ideal—-upwards of 45 MPG.

MY instant MPG readings on the first leg out of Austin were in the mid to low 30s, mainly due to a quartering headwind. I estimate the component at about a 15 knot direct headwind. Distance from Fredericksburg to Fort Stockton is 260 miles. With my burns running well  below 40 MPG, it was clear that I would have to gas up well before Ft. S. Did I mention that the tiger has a 5 gallon tank? At 153 miles (Dist. from Fredericksburg), even Ozona was becoming a stretch. I could chance it at 80MPH, risking running out, slow down, or stop short for gas. The only stop between Fredicksburg and Ozona is Junction, a mere 62 miles. So, not wishing to run out nor to slow down, I stopped in Junctiion. After Junction, it would be another impossible leg; 199 miles go Fort Stockton, so I opted to stop in Ozona; 92 miles. Whew! After Ozona, it is 226 to Van Horn, so I made the 92 miles from Ozona to Ft. Stockton. Then, finally, I could make it from Fort Stockton to Van Horn without range anxiety—-120 miles. And Whew! Again! This pointed out the difference between my R1150 GSA. my R1200RT, and this Tiger, range-wise. The two Beemers can make 250-300 miles between fuel stops easily, wind or no wind.

It emphasizes the need for a safe way to carry external auxiliary fuel on the Tiger. I am working on that, and think I have a workable solution, to be discussed on a later post. 

Van Horn enjoys several good motel/hotel choices, and I found a Hampton Inn on the western outskirts with a suitable restaurant within walking distance (about a mile one-way).

Day 6 tomorrow, and Bisbee, Arizona the proposed destination. 

Saturday, December 8th, 2018. Dried out, well-rested, and full of breakfast, I hit the road for Austin. I had carelessly left the nose mask to my portable CPAP in Diamond Head, but a bit of internet searching found a medical supply company in Austin that stocked the right appliance, and I figured that I could swing by on Monday and pick it up before launching westward once again. The rain had moved on east, and the only minor travel condition of note was temperatures in the low 40s; 41 when I got on the road. Found a Holiday Inn Express Hotel just a few miles from the medical supply company. Distance for the day: 480 uneventful miles. 

Friday, December 7th: Up and at ‘em early, to get to Delta General Offices for that retired employee I.D.

That done, the time was 10:00, and rain threatened, so I found my way to I-85 toward Montgomery, Alabama, 160 miles down the road. At Montgomery, a slight left turn took me toward Mobile via US 65, after which I was on I-10 and headed west and home.

The forecast nasty weather seemed to be behind me, but a new storm was forecast approaching through Texas and along the Gulf Coast. At least I was out of the forecast freezing temperatures.

I stopped for the evening in Diamond Head (Who knew?) Mississippi, for a 413 mile day.

The next morning, Saturday, December 8, I checked the forecast, and it was not nice. Heavy rain due in Houston, Beaumont, Baton Rouge—-all along the Mississippi and Louisiana Gulf Coast, with flash flood warnings. So, with some trepidation, I loaded the Tiger, as it began to rain hard, and rode back onto the I-10, and into the teeth of some steady and moderate rain.

By around 11:30 I had been on the road for four hours, and stopped in Hammond, LA for some breakfast. Once inside and un-coated, I realized for the first time that I was very wet from the waist up. My vaunted Transit Suit leather jacket had let me down as it let liquid sunshine through. I had not felt wet because I had my electric heated jacket and glove plugged in and turned on, and the warmth belied the wet.

Discretion sometimes prevails, even in a stubborn little old man: I called it a day and found a motel, arriving the several blocks from my IHOP breakfast stop in what was then a driving rain. As much as I hated to waste the better part of a riding day, I acknowledged that to continue under the wet conditions I then enjoyed was true folly and asking for some kind of unpleasant incident, not to mention another several hours of wet, soggy wet riding. So, that was a mere 150 mile day, one of my shortest “trip” days since South America.

Next stop: Austin, Texas. 

Yes, and the neglect that I have allowed on this site of mine is indeed terrible, but of course, Sloth is one of The Seven Deadly Sins, and we are all sinners, this old man being no exception. 

 By way of atonement, I can only promise to expend more attention and effort to this humble enterprise.

I just returned Wednesday last (December 12, 1018) from a trip to Simpsonville, South Carolina, where I purchased a very slightlly used 2018 Triumph Tiger 800 XRX motorcycle. Simpsonville is a small community just outside Greenville, SC. My former sailing mentor, RJ located this scooter on Cycle Trader, and recommended that I try the Tiger 800 as a lighter and more easily handled “Dual Purpose” bike than my old standby, Der Klunkenschiffter which has carried me so faithfully for so many happy and a few not so charming miles. I have been forced to admit that the ravages of time have taken some of the vitality from my bones and that I should find myself a more easily piloted ride. Hence, why not the Tiger? This was tricked out with many appealing farkles, in addition to which it was the ‘Low” version with a 29” seat, just right for my 31’ inseam. It is not only low enough for me to straddle it flat-footed, but is a full 164 pounds lighter than the Beemer. 

I must admit that as time has galloped along, I have become increasingly uncomfortable on that big GSA, and reluctant to go off the pavement in areas seldom traveled, because when the inevitable strikes and she goes down on a side, I am very hard-pressed to get her back on the rubber. It happens maybe one out of four time that I can exert enough remaining leg power to “getter done.”

 So,  I boarded Delta—-full fare no less—-and flew east. I probably needn’t say how painful it is for a once airline pilot to pay full fare. Those in the know regarding said pilotos are fully aware of the “cheap” phenomenon that accompanies nearly all of we Sky Gods. But, I sucked it up and paid the price.

Here i must interject that my experiences with Delta since they absorbed NWA have been without exception excellent, and this trip east was no different. We did depart PHX an hour or so late, but Pax were notified by text and by e-mail well in advance of scheduled departure. Ticket purchase online is painless and check-in at the airport is a dream. I transferred in Atlanta, a very imposing terminal for the inexperienced trraveler, but quite efficient and easy once the intimidation of multiple wings, underground train and gate that can be training grounds for marathoners becomes familiar.

 I made the connection to GSP with time to spare, rode the 50 minutes in the last seat of an MD88 (no real complaint here, but not my first choice), and by the time I got to baggage and located a luggage cart (not free—-Boo!), my large duffle containing my leather riding suit, tank bag, heated jacket liner and gloves, riding boots, changes of clothes, extra tie down straps, long johns, and sundry was ready for my departure to my hotel for the evening. So far, so good.

The next morning, after a nice hotel breakfast buffet, the very gracious seller, Mr. KW arrived to pick me up. The bike was exactly as he had advertised—-and more. It had these advertised farkles: Touratech Zega Pro side and top panniers—-top of the line and not cheap—-engine guards, OEM running lights, Ram Mount for GPS, including cradle for Garmin-BMW Navigator V GPS (I bit another bullet and bought a new one—-$900+). In addition, he had put on Bark Buster hand guards and Touratech pannier liners for all three panniers. Before I rode off into the sunset he threw in a nearly new bike cover!

We conducted our business without incident, and after I discovered that I had lugged the wrong tank bag, Mr. W. took me down to FedEx to ship the bag and some other superfluous items back to PHX. Mr. W. was as I said, very gracious; a straight shooter and a gentleman in the best sense of the word.

Weather forecast for the area were not calling for balmy clime, and i beat it out of town at 1315, bound for I-85 and Atlanta. MY GPS did not work, and I milled around Greater Atlanta for an hour or so before locating a decent motel not far from the Delta General Offices, where I would secure a new Retired ID the following day (Friday, December 7). It took nearly an hour of stop-and-go to negotiate through downtown ATL. Traffic is choking the cities and some of the smaller municipalities to death. Said GPS worked well once I put the battery in! Duh!

This Tiger 800 is a nice replacement for the R1150 GSA Beemer. It winds up pretty tight a freeway speeds—-a smidge over 6000 RPM at 80 MPH (GPS speed; 85 on the speedo), but there are RPMs to spare, and it is still well below topping out the torque band. It has an excellent cruise control, although the TFT display on the instrument panel is non-intuitive. I took me over a thousand miles to figure out some settings, including resetting the clock. Due to that complication, I failed my usual almost compulsive record keeping: MPG, miles per day, per  the Odo and the GPS. After about 1600 miles and a conversation via phone with RJ back in San Diego, I figured out that the wind screen is adjustable up and down with just quick flick of the wrists (while stopped, for safety).

More on this pleasant trip next time...